Luka Dakskobler

Stories: THE LONG NIGHTS ON THE MARMARA SEA

Where the sea is literally in the heart of a metropolis, fishing is the beat. It provides income even to the smallest of boats, the poorest of fishermen trying to make a living off the Marmara sea or the Bosphorus strait. It is these small boats that are left behind when the big ones follow the fish up the Mediterranean. Adem, Cevat and Cinar are a crew of a small five meter boat, rocking heavily on the restless sea of Marmara, searching for fish, dropping the net, guiding the fish in and pulling the net out. They usually don’t do it during the day. It’s too hot for them and the fish. So they do it at night. Gathering at four o’clock p.m. on a boat harboured in the Kumkapi district of Istanbul, they prepare their nets and water supplies, eat a meal and start their day that lasts up until seven a. m. on the next day. They take their catch to the distribution market to sell the fish. But they have to compete with what the big boats brought back from further north. The pay is small, so their rest is short. A day later, they're back on the Marmara sea at night. 

  • The boats are small and cramped and look messy although everything has its place. Nevertheless, before they leave, they clean the deck where they will spend the entire night.
  • Adem's boat is one of a relatively small number of small boats that are forced to stay on the Sea of Marmara during summer when the fish move to a colder climate up the Mediterranean and only the big fishing vessels can follow them.
  • Cevat Sariaydin makes coffee in the cabin of a small boat, rocking heavily on the Marmara sea, heading out to fish on 21st June 2010.
  • Cevat Sariaydin hands a cup of coffee to Adem, who is steering the boat from the flybridge as they head out to fish throughout the night on the Sea of Marmara on June 21, 2010. Coffee is the basic tool for staying awake and alert during the night when they fish because it is cool enough for the fishermen and the fish.
  • Cinar observes the sea as they circle the schools of fish in the Marmara Sea on June 21, 2010.
  • Cevat and Cinar sort the fish as they pull the net from the Sea of Marmara off the coast of Istanbul on 21st June 2010. Getting a fish out of the net and throwing it into the right casket is such a routine that they do not need to watch what they're doing. They have a failproof system and they know it by heart.
  • First catch of the day for Adem, Cevat and Cinar on the Sea of Marmara on June 21, 2010. Any large number of fish caught is a gift since the summer season doesn't even allow for any abundant catches. The fish that hadn't migrated North into cooler waters spend their days in deeper, cooler water and only come up to shallower depths at night when the water cools down.
  • Waiting for the night to fall completely and the fish to come up, Cevat, Adem and Cinar discuss the tactics. A lot of work overnight is coordinated with their friend's boat which only has two fishermen on board.
  • When the night falls, the small boat is a tiny light on a moonlit sea scattered with the bright lights of tens of cargo ships.
  • Adem, Cevat and Cinar pull the net from the Sea of Marmara off the coast of Istanbul just after midnight on June 22, 2010. They fish throughout the night because the air and sea are cooler, and the fish are more likely to be in low depths.
  • Fishing just accross from the expensive Sheraton hotel, Adem, Cevat and Cinar do not earn much, especially in the summer non-fishing season.
  • Adem and Cevat take an ice block from the freezer to put it into the crate where all the caught fish are stored until morning.
  • The fishermen pull the net from the Sea of Marmara off the coast of Istanbul on June 22, 2010. At night, the boat lights up. Small car light bulbs are used because they emit a lot of light and do not take up much space. A floating buoy with a light beacon is fastened to the end of the net so that they can see it in the dark. Strong reflector lights directed into the surface of the water help guide the fish in.
  • One of the three-man crew jumps onto a friend's boat to tie the boats together as they stop to help each other with sorting the fish on the Sea of Marmara off the coast of Istanbul on June 22, 2010.
  • At six in the morning, both boats return to the dock in the Kumkapi district of Istanbul just next to the distribution bazaar. Awaited by seagulls and an occasional cat. The bazaar is full by then.
  • At the docks in Kumkapi, fishermen put the fish into wooden caskets that they carry to the distribution bazaar to sell them on the morning of June 22, 2010, after they had been fishing for the entire night.
  • At a distribution bazaar in Kumkapi, clients inspect Adem, Cevat and Cinar's catch on June 22, 2010. But Adem's sardines and sand smelt must compete with a full hall of large fish from all over the Mediterranean, including large swordfish, etc.
  • Adem humbly waits as the grocer puts down a price for their six caskets of fish. The amount of money the three fishermen will split among themselves.
  • The small fish, mostly sardines, are a popular summer cuisine in Istanbul, but they are scarce in the Sea of Marmara in the summer. A lot of the fish brought to the distribution market are sold to customers in the fish bazaar in Kumkapi or Karakoy.
  • After a long night of fishing, Adem and his friend sit in the other boat's cabin, resting, eating breakfast, and chatting before going home to sleep for a day and returning the day after.
  • By dawn, the distribution bazaar in the fishing port of Kumkapi is full of fishermen, buyers, restaurant owners, and shop owners, buying the fish for their business. Thousands of tourists in Istanbul will eat thousands of fish during the day.
  • A selection of fish rests on a stand in the Karakoy fish market, the popular fish market in the heart of Istanbul, on June 24, 2010. Most of the small fish here come from local fishermen like Adem, Cevat and Cinar, fishing long nights on the Sea of Marmara.
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